The Wine Guy Uncorked

THE WINE GUY- Memories

I was going to write an article responding to some quotes in The New York Times and other newspapers that “Fine Dining was dead”. This I don’t believe. However, there are various levels of “fine dining.” If you mean the pretentious fake French speaking waiters who mispronounce “Meritage” the American word for Claret or Bordeaux blend made in California, and who look down on their guests as if they were unworthy to dine in their fine dining restaurant- then I say Good Riddance. But if they mean a non-pretentious restaurant that has exceptional servers well trained in the art of food and wine pairing serving the freshest ingredients available at reasonable prices- then I say they are wrong. And the number of guests returning to Elizabeth’s year after year would also agree.

It is amazing how much our senses key our memories. Can you remember the first song that was “your and your first crush’s song” – and when you hear it are memories rekindled- even from Junior High School? It is the same thing with a spectacular meal, an incredible wine experience, a wonderful play, a movie that touched you, a book, music, anything that involved your senses and an experience.

I have had the pleasure of assisting friends with their memories that involve a very special or unique bottle of wine. We love it when a guest enjoys a wine so much they reminisce about it years later. But not all incredible wines have to be enjoyed in a traditional setting- like a restaurant, in your home, or on your deck. Some of my best wine memories are not all at Elizabeth’s. I had the pleasure of knowing a young lady who believed a special bottle of wine should be opened and consumed at a unique location. We opened a bottle of Chateau D’Yquem that had been chilled in a West Virginia stream and sipped it while nibbling on homemade Macaroon cookies sitting on a picnic table in a fine misty rain. We had a bottle of Duckhorn Merlot sitting by a duck pond at the Williamsburg Inn while snacking on French bread and cheese. I remember our drinking a bottle of Salon Champagne while watching a sun set and a bottle of Bollinger RD Champagne the next morning at sunrise. I have had so many bottles of Krug, one of my favorite Champagnes, but none was as memorable as the one shared sitting on steps by the ocean filled with phosphorescence while my companion sang a song she composed on the spot.

I love to share a bottle of Perrier Jouet Champagne on Elizabeth’s porch with my friends- the list of friends who have enjoyed PJ on the porch is limitless – for I sit with friends on the porch throughout the year. Each new bottle rekindles memories of past times together. The stories grow and often return to a shared moment over dinner or while drinking something very special.

Some magazines have created lists of one hundred great wines you have to taste before you die. That may be taking the concept too far. I think there are much fewer that I consider a must try experience. Te wine should be enjoyed with friends and a meal. To drink a world class wine in your closet by yourself so you can drink it all is missing the unique experience. It must be shared.

My maybe top 10 list:

1. Joseph Drouhin 1985 Le Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche. Considered by all wine authorities as the fines Chardonnay ever produced – scoring 100 on every review. This was a wine I featured at our Millennium New Years Eve party. Although most of the guests preferred red wines this wine won the best of evening award and most of our guests agreed it was the finest bottle of Wine they had ever enjoyed. There is none available anywhere at any price.

2. Krug Champagne 1990 Clos de Mensil. A once in a lifetime experience – only for a really special occasion. This is the finest Champagne still available although very difficult to find. Any vintage of Krug Clos de Mensil is spectacular but this vintage is the best of the best. This wine was also featured at one of our New Years Eve celebrations.

3.Bollinger 1990 RD (Recently Disgourged) Champagne. This is an aged in the bottle 1990 Grand Anne and was spectacular. Madame Lily Bollinger, the widow of Jacques Bollinger who died in 1941, ran the famous Bollinger Champagne House during the German Occupation of France and until her death in 1977. During an interview in the early 1960’s Madame Bollinger was asked if she drank Champagne. She replied:

“I only drink Champagne when I’m happy, and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I triffle with it if I am not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it – unless I’m thirsty.”

I agree, it is the one wine I could not live without- it goes with all food and is a celebration of life.

4. Salon 1985 Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne Le Mesnil. One of the most highly regarded Champagnes released in the last fifty years. A wine we enjoyed at several New Year’s Eve celebrations. Very few cases of Salon are imported each year. Any Salon is perfect because if a vintage is not up to their high standards it is not released.

5. Lewis Cellars 2005 Cuvee L Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – the latest in the superior Cuvee L. Only one hundred fifty 3 bottle cases produced. “Toasty, smoky oak spices, chocolate, clove and caramel aromas jump off the line. Racy black currant and Turkish coffee flavors are smooth on the track, with super-wide tannins providing tenacious grip through the twisties. Great mileage too!” Randy Lewis was a race car driver- hence the references in his description of this wine.

Any Lewis Cabernet Sauvignon is incredible. The Napa Cabernet, the Reserve and the Cuvee L are increasing more complex and wonderful. These wines receive outstanding ratings and are difficult to obtain. If you search one of these wines out you will be rewarded. Before attaining its cult status Elizabeth’s offered The Lewis Napa Cabernet Sauvignon by-the-glass.

Wines I haven’t had but hope to:

6. Chateau Petrus 2005 Grand Vin Pomerol. The 100 rated best of all Petrus wines. I may not live long enough to enjoy this wine. It needs to remain in the cellar for at least 5 to 10 years. Well, maybe I will be able to try it. Considered by some wine writers and wine enthusiasts to be the finest Red Wine in the world – certainly the most expensive.

“A sleeping giant. Dark ruby in color, showing aromas of blackberry, crêpe and green olive, with a hint of mineral. Full-bodied, with ultrafine tannins and a super-caressing mouthfeel. Turns to coffee, dark chocolate and berry. Chewy yet balanced. Very, very long in the mouth. The finish is absolutely breathtaking. Best after 2013 THE WINE SPECTATOR Collectibile Selection 3/31/2008 A 100 Rated Wine”

7. There are literally hundreds of wonderful wines, and space permitting in a future issue I will list more of my favorites.

Wines I enjoy everyday.

8. Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut Champagne- Our House Champagne. The wine we serve on our porch and our gift to our face book friends. “This is what you expect a prestige Champagne to look, smell and taste like. Poised and stylish, it layers sharp citrus fruit with spicy wood and light toast. Layers of citrus, tangerine and flower blossoms unfold elegantly; lime and grapefruit accents add interest, and above all it comports itself with impeccable balance, precision and grace. THE WINE ENTHUSIAST 93 points”

9. Clark-Claudon Vineyards 2003 10^th Anniversary Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. My new favorite. “The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate exhibits an evolved dark plum/ruby color already revealing some lightening at the edge. Nevertheless, it is a tasty, seductive effort displaying notes of plums, licorice, black currants, figs, and soy. This medium-bodied, fleshy Cabernet appears to be on a fast evolutionary track, so consumption over the next 7-8 years is recommended. The Wine Advocate December 2006.”

10. Any wine you really like that is a step up and doesn’t break the bank is a good wine for you to begin your memories.

I can remember incredible meals I have enjoyed with friends and can visualize each plate and the ambience of the setting . Do you have memories that are recalled when you sip a particular wine, or hear a special piece of music, or have a particularly wonderful meal?

If so please share them with me. If I get enough I may include your memories in my next column.

By the way ‘Meritage” is pronounced rhyming with “heritage” not “Marry taj”

“May all your pains be Champagnes” Elizabeth’s Toast.

Leonard Logan, Proprietor of Elizabeth’s Cafe & Winery in Duck North Carolina for its entire 20 years, is a wine judge, wine writer and wine consultant. He can be found sipping Champagne or Clark-Claudon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon at Elizabeth’s with new and old friends almost nightly. If Leonard sits at your table when he makes his rounds towards the end of the evening the chances are you will sip some extraordinary wine. If you have any questions or comments or ideas contact Leonard at elizcafe@charter/net or elizabethscafe.com

About Leonard Logan: Leonard Logan's passion for wine, love of good food, and knack for entertaining has garnered him a reputation on both a local and national level. As the owner of a restaurant that has won countless awards-from "The Best Fine Dining Wine Restaurant in the United States" (Santé Magazine, 2003) to "The Award of Ultimate Distinction" (The Wine Enthusiast, 2004 and 2005) - Logan has been honing his craft since his college days at Duke University as an amateur caterer for football games and college parties.

Tags: Bollinger RD Champagne, Chateau Petrus 2005 Grand Vin Pomerol, Duyckhorn Merlot, Joseph Drouhin 1985 Le Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche, Krug 1990 Clos de Mensil Champagne, Lewis Cellars 2005 Cuvee L Napa Cabernet, Meritage, Salon Champagne

This entry was posted on Friday, September 10th, 2010 at 2:36 am and is filed under Dining. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.

About the author

Leonard Logan's passion for wine, love of good food, and knack for entertaining has garnered him a reputation on both a local and national level. As the owner of a restaurant that has won countless awards-from "The Best Fine Dining Wine Restaurant in the United States" (Santé Magazine, 2003) to "The Award of Ultimate Distinction" (The Wine Enthusiast, 2004 and 2005) - Logan has been honing his craft since his college days at Duke University as an amateur caterer for football games and college parties.