Musings at a National Conference in 1998
This is a slightly different blog – but I will touch on some wine issues that are important to retailers, wholesalers and the wine buying public.
This is an interesting year for restaurants and wine and guests and for everyone who has to balance a budget and buy gas. I have recently returned from the Santé National Restaurant Conference in Vermont hosted by Santé’ Magazine, The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals. I was a panelist on three panels and presented an improve teaching on wine server training.
The gist of the conference and remarks by all attendees is that this is a difficult time for restaurants. I would be reluctant to try and begin a new restaurant during the present economy. At Elizabeth’s we have remained successful because of guests who return year after year and refer their friends to us.
I have been preaching at all these conferences for years that restaurants must change their attitude towards their wine list and by-the-glass list. For twenty years we, at Elizabeth’s, have tried to offer the best example of varietals we could find at a reasonable mark-up. Finally, other restaurants are beginning to understand that the wine aficionados visiting their restaurant are educated concerning the best wines and reasonable prices for these wines. I have explained on panels that offering great wines at fair and reasonable prices is the best way to assist the novice wine drinker to understand both the simple tastes and complexities of wine. This may seem contradictory but wine is really history, geology and a food all wrapped up in a beverage. It isn’t rocket science- and need not be hidden behind phrases of taste profiles that have no meaning to most people. There are hints of flavors that can be pleasurable and make wine a perfect accompaniment to food. We also want to provide a perfect dining experience for the guests who have experienced the marvels of pursuing their personal wine education. There is no better course you can take because you are the teacher, your palate grades the wine. If you taste a wine you don’t like - it isn’t a good wine for your palate. It doesn’t matter what the wine reviewers and anyone else tells you. Your palate should control the selection of the wines you drink.
Historically, a number of restaurants offered by-the-glass wines selections as an after-thought. Selecting inexpensive wines and marking them up three to four times as a huge money maker. These wines were not stored properly, were mediocre to begin with and became worse with improper storage. It is no wonder people didn’t trust wine by –the- glass. At Elizabeth’s the entire staff s involved in the wine selection process. We choose the best example of a varietal for glass pours and the price is not inflated because it is being offered by-the-glass. At the conference I explained that bottle pricing at Elizabeth’s has always been reasonable - considering the fact that some wines are highly allocated and others are only available if the restaurant buys a substantial quantity of other lesser allocated wines offered by the winery. Our guests recognize we offer incredible wines at a fair price. Accordingly, we make up the difference in our lower wine prices compared with most other restaurants, by selling a greater quantity of wine at a lower price.
Bottles open for by-the-glass service should be properly stored. We utilize an argon system of our own invention- for your wine at home there are small cans of spray that are offered by most wine shops. Oxygen is the enemy of wine after it has been open and a wine can quickly loose it flavors in time. An inert gas can provide a barrier so the oxygen doesn’t come in contact with the wine. If you are attempting to keep a wine for a full day after it has been open do what we do- use it for cooking.
Restaurant wines are generally but not always higher than wine shop prices. This is because a restaurant can acquire more highly allocated wines that are more expensive and must store these wines in temperature controlled environments. Many allocated wines must be purchased upon release and often stored for years before being ready to drink. Sometimes a restaurant will offer wines it does not place on its list at shop prices from non-temperature controlled shelving- Restaurants that serve and store red wines in heated areas adjacent to kitchens and serve white wines at near freezing temperatures are becoming fewer as the guests expect and demand better wine experiences.
Most restaurants and people serve white wines too cold and red wines too warm. A person’s perception of a wines taste is affected by the temperature. We taste by our tongue only sweet, sour, salt and bitter. The real taste of wine and food is obtained from vapors that reach the upper nasal cavity by inhaling or from vapors rising from behind the palate after swallowing.
A very cold wine will release few flavor vapors. At 60 to 65 degrees most wines are capable of releasing their full flavor components. As a wine is chilled it tastes crisper, fruitier and drier but looses fullness and complexity. Above 65 degrees ethyl alcohol is released and as a wine warms the alcohol dilutes the flavor components and numbs the nerves.
Most home refrigerators are chilled to approximately 38 degrees to keep milk icy cold. Only the poorest jug wines should be served directly from a home refrigerator. These wines have little complexity or acidity and cold makes them appear crisp and thirst quenching while at the same time hiding their flaws.
An outstanding rich and complex Chardonnay will release best flavors between 50 and 60 degrees. For those used to wines served palate numbing directly from the refrigerator wines served at a proper temperature may appear “warm.” However, each wine has an ideal temperature which enhances the complexity of the wine while at the same time maintaining a refreshing tartness. We attempt to serve wines at Elizabeth’s as close as possible to this ideal temperature. Rieslings, Chenin Blanc, and some other white wines are meant to be served colder. We serve these wines and our wines by the glass at a cooler temperature. If wines are served too cold at a restaurant simply cup your hand around the glass and the wine will warm to a proper temperature at your table in a few minutes.
From the earliest days Red Wines were served directly from the wine cellar at “Room Temperature”. However, “Room Temperature” in days of castles and manor houses with wine cellars is not remotely similar to our present day central heatpump homes and restaurants. The term “room temperature” means 60 to 65 degrees to most wine makers. As an example, our wine cellar at Elizabeth’s stores our fine wines at 57 degrees which enables us to serve red wines at this recommended “room temperature”.
The conference emphasized the need for server training and the importance guests place on service in the dining experience. This is something that involves time and training must include wine tasting.
There is a growing green movement involving alternatives to bottled water. After the conference I became convinced each restaurant should do its best to eliminate bottled water yet continue to offer quality clear water. Elizabeth’s has invested in a state of the art five stage reverse osmosis water purifying and filtration system for our drinking water. This is the same type of system that was invented to provide fresh drinking water for submarine and naval vessels. The benefits of purifying water on site are obvious. The elimination of shipping, moving, storing and disposing of thousands of glass bottles has a positive impact on the environment and reduces use of petroleum. Yes, it is costly, but the health benefits of providing completely pure water is worth the investment. And the water tastes really good- or in actuality has no taste- which is what you want..
French wines are expensive. Not all but most. The Euro value compared to the falling dollar makes French wine particularly expensive in this country at this time. Wines from Australia and New Zealand and many wines from South America are available at extremely reasonable prices. Always try a wine before buying more than a few bottles.
Wine dinners, wine flights and the experience to taste a number of wines in smaller quantities is now a growing trend. We have offered wine dinners nightly at Elizabeth’s for nineteen years. Almost all of the conference attendees questioned me as to how we do it and how it has become so successful. The answer is really simple: offer great wines, select the wine first and create the food for the selected wine, buy the best ingredients you can find for the food and then try to not mess up the wonderful ingredients. Generally, on any given evening at Elizabeth’s over one-half of the guests order and enjoy a wine dinner.
Many restaurants are offering “small plates” with cocktails, wine flights or by-the-glass selections. This involves a bar area with appetizer size servings. We have recently changed the Wine Gallery by adding the incredible award winning paintings by our Executive Chef, Brad Price, to the “Gallery at Elizabeth’s” where guests can enjoy the small plate wine and cocktail experience. We still have seating on the porch or at the bar for drinks.
Enjoy a glass of Champagne today- every day we are here should be a reason to celebrate.
Leonard Logan is the proprietor of Elizabeth’s Café in Duck. He has traveled extensively to wine producing areas, has been a guest judge and lecturer at wine festivals and seminars and has hosted wine dinners for twenty years. Elizabeth’s Café has been awarded innumerable prizes including The Wine Enthusiast’s Top Award, the second most prestigious award from the Wine Spectator and recognition as the Best Fine Dining Wine Restaurant in the United States. Leonard can be found at the restaurant or e-mail him at elizcafe@charter.net.